Wow! What A Great Day
Thursday June 15
Wow! What a great day! No hot water, so no showers, but who cares – I accomplished so much today – I’m quite pleased with myself!
We’re beginning to have a routine, which really helps relieve a lot of the stress and discomfort. We got up early so that we could have breakfast before Ed went off to meet Gennady to see his first criminal trial in the Ukraine. I would have liked to go too, but I really had to see if I could get our train tickets to Kyiv – the train leaves so early that I was afraid that if we left it for the day of travel we wouldn’t be able to do it.
Ed left at about 9 to take his first tram ride, and I, after walking Belle, left at about 9:15. I studied the metro map, figured out where to walk to get to the right metro station, bought my 50 Kopek token, went in, looked at the signs, and was able to read the stops and figure out which side of the tracks I should stand on. I must say that it is pretty simple here – no matter which metro line you are taking, you go through the same turnstile and down the same stairs or escalators, regardless of which direction you are traveling. Then you stand on either the right side or the left side, depending on which direction you are traveling. Since they list all the stations the train will stop at, with arrows pointing in the direction the train is going, it’s not hard to see which side you should stand on. I carefully counted the number of stops before the train station (two), and then counted off two while I was on the metro, getting off right inside the Central Train Station. Everything was going really well – it was only 9:45 and I was already there! And this was during rush hour!!
The night before, Alona had drawn me a little map showing me where I had to go to purchase the train tickets – there is a separate booth for “foreigners” and you have to show the passports of the travelers in order to buy the tickets. I did fine, except I did miss the foreigner’s booth and went to a regular booth the first time. I handed the woman the piece of paper on which I had had Alona write down, in RUSSIAN, what I wanted – two first class tickets to Kyiv on the 7:10 a.m. train and and two first class tickets to Kharkiv from Kyiv on the 5:30 p.m. train, on Friday, June 16. When I took out our passports she shook her head and said something I couldn’t understand – but it was pretty clear that I was at the wrong window. I asked a woman, in Ukrainian, if she could help me, and she asked me, in English “What language do you speak?” I laughed, and said English, and she enquired at the window and found out where I had to go. Turns out she had lived in Los Angeles for four years while her husband worked there (he’s a computer expert of some sort). She showed me where to go – I went – then followed, just to make sure I had gone to the right place. I found the office, checked to make sure I was right, and then proceeded to hand our passports and my piece of paper to the woman. It’s funny – they make “foreigners” buy their tickets at this special office at the train station, but no one there speaks anything but Russian! It became clear that there were two tickets available out of Kharkiv, but that there were no places available on the train back that night. I had been afraid of that – it’s Friday night and I suspected that a lot of people would be coming back, or going, to Kharkiv after business in Kyiv. I think she told me that I could try for tickets in Kyiv, so I decided that I would take the two tickets out of town, and that we would stay in Kyiv on Friday night if we had too – she assured me that there were seats available on both trains leaving Saturday from Kyiv to Kharkiv.
It was only 10:15 and my goal for the day had been met! I decided to take the metro (it’s the same line) to the stop for TARGET – yes, that’s right – TARGET!!! I never thought I would see the day when I would thank the lord for a Target store, but this is that day. I had seen an ad for Target the day before and had asked at the computer store where it was located. He showed me the TWO locations, on either end of the city, and I picked the one that was most easily accessible by metro. I thought I would just take a look around, but wait until Ed could come with me to stock up and buy things since it would be hard for one person to get the stuff home. So again, I carefully counted the stops (seven), got on the metro, ticked off the stops, and followed the crowds out of the station (I assumed everyone would be going to Target!). I did finally ask someone where the Target was, and of course I was going in the wrong direction. No matter – it was only a question of a few feet. I stepped outside the station and there it was – HUGE – they MUST have paper towels here!
The store is very, very big, and very, very badly organized. The very first counter you see when you enter is the gun section – pistols, semi-automatics, the works – and lots of people there already, lining up to get theirs! Thank you Target and the USA gun culture – it’s really quite scary.
It took me ages to find the section where they keep paper goods – I asked a young woman if she spoke English, and she did, and she directed me to the right section. I went to find it, but ended up back in the same place, only a couple of aisles over, in the midst of juices of every kind and description. She actually came after me and personally took me to the right place! I am constantly stunned by how kind people can be. I lit on the soft toilet paper right away (I have to admit that I punched a little hole in a couple of packages to find the softest brand! Kleenex was actually very bad). But I couldn’t find any tissues or paper towels. I finally found what I thought must be plastic bags to line the trash cans (but it was pure guess work). The aluminum foil and plastic wrap were even more of a shot in the dark. I found some Tide and then moved on to the good stuff – chocolate! I got a variety of dark chocolates to see if we can find one we love – some tried and true, like Toblerone and Lindt, and some more exotic. I can’t wait to test them. I also got what I think is tangy mustard, a salt shaker, a big cup for Ed, a little pitcher for milk, some sponge cloths since I couldn’t find any paper towels, some cereal that looks like it might be whole grain and not loaded down with sugar like the Cheerios Honey Nut we had bought the first day. I found a little notebook for me to carry around so that, when I ask people to “Napasheet boudlaska” (write it down, please), I will have something for them to napasheet on. I also found some shampoo and conditioner for Ed (Dove) - I had brought mine with me from the States, of course! - and, after venturing back to the paper goods section, hallelujah, paper towels AND tissues!!! This was a really, really good day! I went to check out and there was a very sweet looking young girl at the register. Every time I opened my mouth and tried to say something in Ukrainian she burst into hysterics. It was a little disconcerting, but I don’t think she was being mean – it’s just that EVERYONE speaks Russian, and the idea of a foreigner, an American no less, trying to speak Ukrainian, is hilarious from their point of view.
When I looked at my register slip later on I saw that the total was about $30, and that only two items cost more than one dollar, and I bet those items were chocolate!
I had them put the goods in two pretty sturdy plastic bags and, since it was mostly paper goods, it wasn’t very heavy. I thought, well, this is easy, I can take the metro back – I don’t need a taxi. And I was right! I made a slight miscalculation because I thought I was going PAST the train station when, in fact, I was actually going to the stoop that is two stops BEFORE the train station. I realized this at the stop after mine – so I simply got off, walked across the platform to the other side, and hopped on the next train back one stop to my station. I got out (but not before buying some peanuts for Ed, from a Babushka in the station) and walked home, arriving before 2 p.m.!!
I took Belle for a stroll, came back, turned on the computer, dialed up, got some emails, looked up some hotels in Kyiv, and called to make reservations (the hotel I want and phoned about a reservation doesn’t take dogs, so I emailed them later, using Ed’s email account and his name and credit card, and made a reservation. I’ll just put Belle in her little case and walk in – I don’t think anyone will be the wiser – at least I hope not! (Hey, it worked with the Hotel Kharkiv, it worked with the apartment on Pushkinskya – why not here?????) Then I went out to see if I could get some paper for my printer and another dial up internet card in case this one runs out of time (I have no idea how long it will last).
Ohmygod – even more successes! It’s these small triumphs that make all the difference. I had passed what looked like a stationery store before, so I walked up there, went in, and saw boxes of Master Standard Paper for Laser and InkJet Printers!!! The boxes were so heavy though – but I managed to get them to understand that I wanted a smaller package, and they had some! I bought one, and while I was at the “kasse” paying for it, I saw that they had the right kind of internet card, so I got one of those as well. One-stop shopping – I love it!
I had brought along one of my sturdy Target plastic bags so that I could stop at the market and buy some beer and some vegetables for dinner (we still have smoked turkey, kilbassa, cheese, bread, and three pies (two cheese and one meat) available for consumption at the apartment. This I did – they know me now here and smile and nod when I walk in! – but only after first stopping at a “French Patisserie” – yes, really, and quite good too. I had a delicious coffee, really delicious, and a pain au chocolat for $1!!
Ed came home exhausted, but told me that the trial was really interesting. I’ll describe what he told me later, but it is sort of amazing – especially the part about the dogs!! Now I’ve got your attention, haven’t I?? We had a really nice supper, exchanged stories about our day – this was a really good one for me. And it became even better at 7:30 when Boris arrived and fixed the hot water and then brought in the “master” who connected me to the internet with a fast DSL line!
Ed is already asleep, and I will soon join him – very pleased with this first day of our second week in Kharkiv!
Wow! What a great day! No hot water, so no showers, but who cares – I accomplished so much today – I’m quite pleased with myself!
We’re beginning to have a routine, which really helps relieve a lot of the stress and discomfort. We got up early so that we could have breakfast before Ed went off to meet Gennady to see his first criminal trial in the Ukraine. I would have liked to go too, but I really had to see if I could get our train tickets to Kyiv – the train leaves so early that I was afraid that if we left it for the day of travel we wouldn’t be able to do it.
Ed left at about 9 to take his first tram ride, and I, after walking Belle, left at about 9:15. I studied the metro map, figured out where to walk to get to the right metro station, bought my 50 Kopek token, went in, looked at the signs, and was able to read the stops and figure out which side of the tracks I should stand on. I must say that it is pretty simple here – no matter which metro line you are taking, you go through the same turnstile and down the same stairs or escalators, regardless of which direction you are traveling. Then you stand on either the right side or the left side, depending on which direction you are traveling. Since they list all the stations the train will stop at, with arrows pointing in the direction the train is going, it’s not hard to see which side you should stand on. I carefully counted the number of stops before the train station (two), and then counted off two while I was on the metro, getting off right inside the Central Train Station. Everything was going really well – it was only 9:45 and I was already there! And this was during rush hour!!
The night before, Alona had drawn me a little map showing me where I had to go to purchase the train tickets – there is a separate booth for “foreigners” and you have to show the passports of the travelers in order to buy the tickets. I did fine, except I did miss the foreigner’s booth and went to a regular booth the first time. I handed the woman the piece of paper on which I had had Alona write down, in RUSSIAN, what I wanted – two first class tickets to Kyiv on the 7:10 a.m. train and and two first class tickets to Kharkiv from Kyiv on the 5:30 p.m. train, on Friday, June 16. When I took out our passports she shook her head and said something I couldn’t understand – but it was pretty clear that I was at the wrong window. I asked a woman, in Ukrainian, if she could help me, and she asked me, in English “What language do you speak?” I laughed, and said English, and she enquired at the window and found out where I had to go. Turns out she had lived in Los Angeles for four years while her husband worked there (he’s a computer expert of some sort). She showed me where to go – I went – then followed, just to make sure I had gone to the right place. I found the office, checked to make sure I was right, and then proceeded to hand our passports and my piece of paper to the woman. It’s funny – they make “foreigners” buy their tickets at this special office at the train station, but no one there speaks anything but Russian! It became clear that there were two tickets available out of Kharkiv, but that there were no places available on the train back that night. I had been afraid of that – it’s Friday night and I suspected that a lot of people would be coming back, or going, to Kharkiv after business in Kyiv. I think she told me that I could try for tickets in Kyiv, so I decided that I would take the two tickets out of town, and that we would stay in Kyiv on Friday night if we had too – she assured me that there were seats available on both trains leaving Saturday from Kyiv to Kharkiv.
It was only 10:15 and my goal for the day had been met! I decided to take the metro (it’s the same line) to the stop for TARGET – yes, that’s right – TARGET!!! I never thought I would see the day when I would thank the lord for a Target store, but this is that day. I had seen an ad for Target the day before and had asked at the computer store where it was located. He showed me the TWO locations, on either end of the city, and I picked the one that was most easily accessible by metro. I thought I would just take a look around, but wait until Ed could come with me to stock up and buy things since it would be hard for one person to get the stuff home. So again, I carefully counted the stops (seven), got on the metro, ticked off the stops, and followed the crowds out of the station (I assumed everyone would be going to Target!). I did finally ask someone where the Target was, and of course I was going in the wrong direction. No matter – it was only a question of a few feet. I stepped outside the station and there it was – HUGE – they MUST have paper towels here!
The store is very, very big, and very, very badly organized. The very first counter you see when you enter is the gun section – pistols, semi-automatics, the works – and lots of people there already, lining up to get theirs! Thank you Target and the USA gun culture – it’s really quite scary.
It took me ages to find the section where they keep paper goods – I asked a young woman if she spoke English, and she did, and she directed me to the right section. I went to find it, but ended up back in the same place, only a couple of aisles over, in the midst of juices of every kind and description. She actually came after me and personally took me to the right place! I am constantly stunned by how kind people can be. I lit on the soft toilet paper right away (I have to admit that I punched a little hole in a couple of packages to find the softest brand! Kleenex was actually very bad). But I couldn’t find any tissues or paper towels. I finally found what I thought must be plastic bags to line the trash cans (but it was pure guess work). The aluminum foil and plastic wrap were even more of a shot in the dark. I found some Tide and then moved on to the good stuff – chocolate! I got a variety of dark chocolates to see if we can find one we love – some tried and true, like Toblerone and Lindt, and some more exotic. I can’t wait to test them. I also got what I think is tangy mustard, a salt shaker, a big cup for Ed, a little pitcher for milk, some sponge cloths since I couldn’t find any paper towels, some cereal that looks like it might be whole grain and not loaded down with sugar like the Cheerios Honey Nut we had bought the first day. I found a little notebook for me to carry around so that, when I ask people to “Napasheet boudlaska” (write it down, please), I will have something for them to napasheet on. I also found some shampoo and conditioner for Ed (Dove) - I had brought mine with me from the States, of course! - and, after venturing back to the paper goods section, hallelujah, paper towels AND tissues!!! This was a really, really good day! I went to check out and there was a very sweet looking young girl at the register. Every time I opened my mouth and tried to say something in Ukrainian she burst into hysterics. It was a little disconcerting, but I don’t think she was being mean – it’s just that EVERYONE speaks Russian, and the idea of a foreigner, an American no less, trying to speak Ukrainian, is hilarious from their point of view.
When I looked at my register slip later on I saw that the total was about $30, and that only two items cost more than one dollar, and I bet those items were chocolate!
I had them put the goods in two pretty sturdy plastic bags and, since it was mostly paper goods, it wasn’t very heavy. I thought, well, this is easy, I can take the metro back – I don’t need a taxi. And I was right! I made a slight miscalculation because I thought I was going PAST the train station when, in fact, I was actually going to the stoop that is two stops BEFORE the train station. I realized this at the stop after mine – so I simply got off, walked across the platform to the other side, and hopped on the next train back one stop to my station. I got out (but not before buying some peanuts for Ed, from a Babushka in the station) and walked home, arriving before 2 p.m.!!
I took Belle for a stroll, came back, turned on the computer, dialed up, got some emails, looked up some hotels in Kyiv, and called to make reservations (the hotel I want and phoned about a reservation doesn’t take dogs, so I emailed them later, using Ed’s email account and his name and credit card, and made a reservation. I’ll just put Belle in her little case and walk in – I don’t think anyone will be the wiser – at least I hope not! (Hey, it worked with the Hotel Kharkiv, it worked with the apartment on Pushkinskya – why not here?????) Then I went out to see if I could get some paper for my printer and another dial up internet card in case this one runs out of time (I have no idea how long it will last).
Ohmygod – even more successes! It’s these small triumphs that make all the difference. I had passed what looked like a stationery store before, so I walked up there, went in, and saw boxes of Master Standard Paper for Laser and InkJet Printers!!! The boxes were so heavy though – but I managed to get them to understand that I wanted a smaller package, and they had some! I bought one, and while I was at the “kasse” paying for it, I saw that they had the right kind of internet card, so I got one of those as well. One-stop shopping – I love it!
I had brought along one of my sturdy Target plastic bags so that I could stop at the market and buy some beer and some vegetables for dinner (we still have smoked turkey, kilbassa, cheese, bread, and three pies (two cheese and one meat) available for consumption at the apartment. This I did – they know me now here and smile and nod when I walk in! – but only after first stopping at a “French Patisserie” – yes, really, and quite good too. I had a delicious coffee, really delicious, and a pain au chocolat for $1!!
Ed came home exhausted, but told me that the trial was really interesting. I’ll describe what he told me later, but it is sort of amazing – especially the part about the dogs!! Now I’ve got your attention, haven’t I?? We had a really nice supper, exchanged stories about our day – this was a really good one for me. And it became even better at 7:30 when Boris arrived and fixed the hot water and then brought in the “master” who connected me to the internet with a fast DSL line!
Ed is already asleep, and I will soon join him – very pleased with this first day of our second week in Kharkiv!
posted by Susan Spivak at 2:35 PM
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